Milton’s Bay Café: Café Fare with a Greek Flair

There’s an expression in the South that goes like this: If you’re going for brunch on Sunday morning, “You’ve got to beat the Methodists.”

At 10 o’clock on a recent Sabbath, we clearly did not. 

Still, waiting allowed time to contemplate the adage, a nod to the notion that Methodist sermons end precisely on time while a Baptist minister might meander into overtime.

Not that this Milton’s Bay Cafe crowd wore their Sunday best. This was a beachy, local, jeans-and-flip flop crew with lots of hellos and hugs between tables. 

Huddled at the door with a half-dozen others, we bore witness to nimble servers ferrying a parade of dishes: tall, fruited Belgian waffles crowned with swirls of whipped cream, half-moon omelets covering half the plate, bubbly mimosas, and Bloody Marys, too.

Thirty-five minutes later we settled into a small round table and were handed large, laminated menus offering standard breakfast fare: French toast, omelets, Benedicts, and such, but many with a welcome Greek twist.

Order eggs and sausage here and you’ll choose between good ol’ pork patties or, better yet, loukaniko, Greek links made with pork and lamb and seasoned with herbs and orange peel. Or nix the meat and opt for spanikopita (a Greek spinach-and-feta cheese “pie”) with eggs and homefries ($11.95).

Intrigued, I still couldn’t resist the Benedict offerings, ranging from the classic ($9.95) made with Canadian bacon to a lobster Benedict ($18.95) topped with tomato and avocado. Shortly after ordering and despite the packed dining room, my crab cake Benedict ($17.95) arrived warm and beautifully plated. Two towering stacks anchored by English muffins featured super-crabby crabcakes, grilled ripe tomatoes, spinach, and perfectly poached eggs (sadly, a rarity in restaurants), all cloaked in a rich and tangy hollandaise sauce tinted with Old Bay.

The Benedicts come with a choice of home fries or grits, but instead I tried the Greek fries with feta, a delicious twist on tradition, made even better when our busy waitress offered a tangy, lemony tzatziki sauce for dipping.

Still, there was so much more to explore. So I returned a few days later for lunch with a friend. At 12:30 p.m. midweek, there was no wait at all.

The Greek beef burger ($14.95) topped with feta and tzatziki tempted, but instead I ordered a gyro salad ($13.95) and was glad I did. The artful assemblage of spring mix greens, cucumbers, red onion shards, roasted red peppers arrived with another rarity: big wedges of ripe, red tomatoes. Savory, slightly salty gyro strips topped the salad and six pita points, slightly warm and slightly crispy, rimmed the plate. I spent nearly an hour dipping the freshness into a side of tzatziki, and still it was more than I could finish.

My friend, Susan, ordered the Stuffed Avocado ($15.95), a garden salad similar to mine topped with a half avocado filled with a choice of chicken or tuna salad. Thinking it was risky, she opted for the tuna salad and at the first bite lauded her choice. The baseball-sized mound was held together with a restrained amount of mayo and flecked with chopped celery.

Milton’s doesn’t have a children’s menu, but our waitress noted that regulars split entrees between kids or order a la carte side dishes.

Tucked away just off the Shore Drive drag on Old Great Neck Road, Milton’s seems eclipsed by the uber-popular Citrus restaurant nearby. Milton’s, too, attracts a big, loyal, local clientele, especially on weekends. But it’s well worth the wait.

And by the way, by noon on that that crowded Sunday morning, nearly all of the “Methodists” had left the building. 

Food Find: 

Milton’s Bay Cafe
On Facebook
2253 West Great Neck Road, Virginia Beach
(757) 481-1793
Daily from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Breakfast classics: $6.95-$12.95
Omelets: $10.95-$16.95
Benedicts: $9.95-$18.95
Waffles, crepes and pancakes: $6.95-$9.95 
Lunch appetizers: $8.95-$14.95
Salads: $8.95-$15.95
Sandwiches: $6.95-$15.95
Beverages: $3.25-$3.50

Lorraine Eaton, formerly with the Virginian-Pilot, is co-author of the “Food Lover’s Guide to Virginia,” and author of “Tidewater Table,” a local bestseller. She has won numerous writing awards, and her work has been included in “Best Food Writing.” Lorraine lives in Va. Beach.