Baja-Style Tacos at Bro's

Bro’s is a super-casual, California-sunny, order-at-the-front-counter kind of joint with four seats at the bar, 10 tables inside, and a cozy outdoor patio. (Courtesy photo)

A few summers back, a gaggle of girlfriends filled a plastic bucket with inky eels, strolled down a dock, and commandeered one of our guy’s boats. Our plan: to catch a cobia.

Those slightly sweet, firm white fish ply the Chesapeake Bay in summer and aren’t easy to land. But almost instantly us gals spotted one breaking the surface of the water. We flung a flailing eel towards it and reeled in a fat cobia—first cast—thereby acquiring dinner and a true fishing story that to this day almost no one believes.

Sadly, cobia are just as elusive on local restaurant menus as they are in the bay. So I was surprised when, practically starving, I popped into Bro’s Fish Tacos in Virginia Beach for a quick lunch. There, taped to the counter was a sign that hollered, “COBIA TACOS ARE BACK!!!” 

What luck! 

It’s hard to bypass the tuna ($5.50), the rockfish ($5), the mahi ($5.50) and The Truth flounder taco that everyone talks about ($4.95). Carpe diem. It’s time to taste the season and give cobia a try .

Bro’s is a super-casual, California-sunny, order-at-the-front-counter kind of joint with four seats at the bar, 10 tables inside, and a cozy outdoor patio. Shortly after ordering, the cashier arrived with a paper tray brimming with fat, crispy-fried fingers of fish snuggled into a flour tortilla with all the requisite trimmings.

Forget the cheese and beans and glop that oozes out of Tex-Mex tacos. At Bro’s, they specialize in the Baja style, a fresher, lighter version with roots in the Baja peninsula of California and Mexico.

The basic building blocks of the Baja-style taco are white fish filets, shredded cabbage, and a lightly creamy, spicy sauce. Bro’s checks those boxes and adds a scattering of fresh pico de gallo made with ripe, rough chopped cherry tomatoes, white onion slivers, and a splash of acid. At the counter, diners choose from four signature, made in house mayo-garlic based sauces: chipotle garlic, spicy habanero, classic dill, and sweet cinnamon chipotle.

My fist-sized taco came with a jello shooter cup of spicy habanero. Served on the side without asking, this presentation allows customers to control the heat and honor the fish. In fact, Bro’s whole taco construct is designed to do just that: showcase the fish.

Not a fish fan? Bro’s has you covered with shrimp tacos ($5.10), black bean tacos ($4), chicken tacos ($5.50), and pork or beef tacos ($4.95 each).

The “bowl” menu features the same ingredients, but nixes the tortilla. The small bowl ($5.50 - $6.50) is enough for a light lunch. The large ($10-$12) might sate a hungry man.

My taco was plenty filling, even in my ravenous state. Still, I couldn’t resist trying another seasonal special: Street Corn ($5). Just as I finished the last bite of taco, the cashier arrived with an elongated paper tray holding an ear of tender, sweet white corn on the cob—almost a foot long with an inch or so of stalk attached as a handle. Splotches of char peeked from beneath the slick of tangy crema and dusting of grated Mexican cotija cheese, the latter lending a slightly salty and milky flavor. Bro’s adds a unique flair by adding a touch of smoky chipotle-garlic seasoning. It packs flavor into every single bite.

Bro’s concise menu rounds out with a few chip-and-dip options and some sides: the cilantro-lime rice ($2), with just a whisper of flavor, is a good choice. There’s also a unique French fry menu I have yet to try. Think beer-battered fries ($4-6) or chipotle cheese fries ($8).

There are beers on tap, cider, seltzers, and wine. On Taco Tuesdays and Sundays beer battered rockfish tacos are just $3.50 and grown-up libations are also on special. Combined with the $5 kids’ menu, Bro’s is a wallet- and family-friendly place and a healthy alternative to any fast food joint. 

Food Find: 

Bro’s Fish Tacos
www.brosfishtacos.com
277 Lynnhaven Rd., Virginia Beach
757-620-3380
brosfishtacos@gmail.com

Sun.-Mon. 11a.m. to 3 p.m.
Tues.-Sat. 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Chips with Dips: $4-$8
Appetizer Nachos: $9-$25
Tacos: $4-$5.50
Bowls: Small - $5.50-$6.50
            Large - $10-$12
Sides: $2-$8
Kids Meals: $5-$5.50 includes juice box or fountain drink

Lorraine Eaton, formerly with the Virginian-Pilot, is co-author of the “Food Lover’s Guide to Virginia,” and author of “Tidewater Table,” a local bestseller. She has won numerous writing awards, and her work has been included in “Best Food Writing.” Lorraine lives in Va. Beach.