Yorkie's Modern Deli Wows with Flavor

I’m a fortunate gal. I have a bevy of besties who are culinary geniuses. They can cook, bake, sous vide, and man a grill and smoker with the greatest of skill. Their tastes are varied and discerning, but there’s never a hint of snobbishness.

So when two of them—twice and independently—raved about Yorkie’s Modern Deli, well, I just had to give it a try. 

So should you!

Opened in August on the edge of the Oceanfront’s uber-cool ViBe Creative District, Yorkie’s fits right in, especially on the “creative” front.

I popped in recently and plopped on one of the seven bar stools facing a vast open kitchen. The cavernous building—which formerly housed an artisan furniture outfit, a surfboard shaping shop, and a tackle shop—now sports a smattering of tables and a few orange mid-century modern sofas. 

Over to one side is the requisite deli counter offering sliced meats, cheeses, and salads to go. That’s where the traditional deli vibe ends and Yorkie’s “modern” moniker takes over.

Instead of the standard grilled cheese construct of American cheese on white bread (admittedly a wonderful thing), Yorkie’s snugs fat slabs of burrata cheese, spinach, and a drizzle of chili-garlic oil between slices of sourdough ($12).

What would be a torpedo sandwich elsewhere is the namesake sandwich here. The “Yorkie” ($16) is layered with ham, salami, capicola, mortadella, and doused with a house-made pickled pepper vinaigrette, all on a sesame roll.

Something called the “Fallout” ($12 or $15 with turkey) features sweet potatoes, apples, whipped goat cheese, chili-almonds, and apple vinaigrette on homemade focaccia bread.

I ordered the Turtle ($14). Like the others it’s a forearm-sized offering and a riff on the classic turkey sandwich. Sure, there’s a generous amount of turkey, sliced to the thickness of a dime. What intrigued me about this was the addition of slightly tart red cabbage slaw, fresh cilantro, and—get this—a smattering of crunchy sliced almonds that had been flavored with chili. Served on a fresh sesame roll (with plenty of sesame seeds on top), it’s an intriguing combination of flavors and textures.

Then there’s the creativity that you can’t see.

Yorkie’s executive chef, Kip Poole, is a committed and evangelical follower of the slow food movement, which promotes using local, sustainable food, and cooking methods. He’s the founder of the CROP Foundation, a local non-profit that offers training to local youth entering the culinary trades. And he’s been featured on two television culinary competitions: “Guy’s Grocery Games” and “The Big Brunch” on HBO Max.

So it’s no surprise that Yorkie’s hews to a philosophy of utilizing quality, local ingredients. They also offer vegan and gluten-free options, although the kitchen isn’t certified gluten-free.

It’s the kind of place where you might share a table with strangers and make new friends. Little ones are welcome as well. A straightforward children’s menu—grilled cheese, turkey and cheese, or PBJ served with crunchy tater tots—keeps them happy.

And here’s a bonus: there’s plenty of free parking, a rare find at the Oceanfront.

But it’s the food that will keep me coming back.

“I just want to try everything they have,” said a friend on the stool next to me as she finished one half of her Cuban sammie. ($14).

Another friend harkened to a long gone, well-loved local joint. “This will take the place of the old Jewish Mother,” she predicted, “a spot that locals would drive to the Oceanfront for.”

With a mouthful of goodness, I heartily concurred. 

Food Find: Yorkie’s Modern Deli

yorkiesvb.com
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700 21st St., Virginia Beach
757-904-1767

Winter hours:
Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-6 p.m.
Fri. and Sat., 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Sun., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.

Breakfast sandwiches: $6-$10
Specialty sandwiches with one side: $12-$16
Salads: $13-$14
Sides: $2-$4
Kids’ meals: $5-$6
Dessert: $3.50-$5

Lorraine Eaton, formerly with the Virginian-Pilot, is co-author of the “Food Lover’s Guide to Virginia,” and author of “Tidewater Table,” a local bestseller. She has won numerous writing awards, and her work has been included in “Best Food Writing.” Lorraine lives in Va. Beach.