When I walk into The Shag House, a party venue/rental property in Palm Springs, California, I feel like I’m entering a Barbie-doll fantasy world. Every corner of the house and its furnishings wears colors from a mod palette—lime green, aqua, tangerine, violet, and chartreuse—evoking a cool “Let’s party” vibe. Yet somehow the bright hues have a calming effect. I feel as if I’m in a dream.

Someone offers me a cocktail, and I wander around admiring the home’s swanky 60s-era decor, straight from the pages of a magazine it seems. In the bedrooms, vibrant wallpaper depict scenes of dragons, a jungle, and cats with big eyes and curly tails. Outside surrounded by a spacious patio, a sparkling pool shimmers in the late afternoon sun. I imagine movie stars reclining in the lounge chairs with colorful drinks in hand, sharing tales of their latest movie adventures.

The Shag House with its mid-century vibe represents just one side of Palm Springs, a hidden oasis in the California desert where tall palm trees dominate the landscape. When you look past the fairytale allure of this city, you’ll discover layers of history and a sense of spirituality hiding beneath the ooh-la-la facades. Palm Springs is multi-dimensional, and those who care to look will find much more than a playground for Hollywood’s rich and famous.

Beautiful Desert Landscape

is a Playground to the Stars

A walking tour provides some back story to this fabled city. Accompanied by a guide, our group ambles through the historic center and learns about the first white settlers who came to Palm Springs in the 1880s. They found a small group of Native Americans, the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, and a hot, dry climate. When a large aquifer was discovered in 1900, developers saw their chance to strike it rich and began buying up land. Fortunately, the local tribe held rights to part of the land and were able to share in the city’s rapid growth.

More settlers arrived, and slowly Palm Springs began attracting tourists, many who were drawn to the healthy, dry climate and starkly beautiful desert landscape. Then Hollywood discovered Palm Springs, and it became their playground. In fact, the sidewalks of Palm Springs are dotted with stars bearing the names of the celebrities connected to Palm Springs.

Many bought homes here. My Uber driver points out Bob Hope’s former home perched on the side of a mountain overlooking the city. And while the famous movie stars of the last century are now mostly gone, Hollywood’s newer stars still find their way to Palm Springs, especially during the International Film Festival held every January.

A visit to Palm Springs Art Museum invites more reflection on the city’s appeal. Contemporary art ranges from sculptures and glass to Western and Latin American. But the Native American art captures my attention. Most of the historic pieces—pottery, textiles, and woven baskets—were created by women and reflect the symbols and cultural history of the Native Americans. The incredibly intricate basketry incorporates images of rattlesnakes and eagles, examples of the skilled crafters who wove grasses and fibers together to create beautiful, yet practical, vessels.

In stark contrast, a 26-foot statue of Marilyn Monroe, her skirt flaring up in an imaginary breeze and her panties exposed for all the world to see, stands in front of the art museum. Tourists flock to this iconic statue, gleefully snapping selfies. In 1949, Marilyn was “discovered” in Palm Springs at the age of 22, according to Hollywood lore, and after her startling rise to fame, became a regular visitor and eventually a homeowner, joining the likes of Dean Martin, Sammy Davis, Jr., Bing Crosby, Frank Sinatra, and Lucille Ball, to name a few.

Elvis and Priscilla Presley celebrated their honeymoon in their home here, known as The House of Tomorrow. You can view this property and other mid-century modern homes during Palm Springs’ annual Modernism Week, coming up Feb. 13-23, 2025. Bus tours and walking tours are among 350 events that also include a design show, film screenings, cocktail parties, and more.

Discover Local Culture

at the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum

Keen to learn more about Palm Springs’ original residents, I find my way to the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum located in downtown Palm Springs at the site of the tribe’s original sacred spring. The stunning museum features a unique design that includes circular components meant to echo the shape of a basket. Exhibits include the history of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, including their creation and migration stories, presented in a 360° theater using digital animation.

Other exhibits include artifacts and more examples of beautiful basketry and pottery. My favorite exhibit explores how the local native people have changed and adapted to the arrival of the Euro-American settlers in the 19th century. Today the federally recognized tribe has multiple properties and casinos employing many of its local members.

Next door to the museum is an oasis within an oasis: The Spa at Séc-he (which means “sound of boiling water” in the native language). The 73,000-square-foot luxury spa offers a tranquil escape to Palm Springs residents and visitors. Like the museum, the spa’s organic design reflects the desert landscape and incorporates natural elements such as wood and stone, connecting guests to nature. I spend a day at the spa, enjoying its restorative amenities and relaxing vibe.

Soaking in the mineral baths is one of Séc-He’s unique offerings. Originating 8,000 feet underground, the spring absorbs minerals such as calcium, magnesium, and sodium on its journey to the surface and arrives at a cool yet comfortable 105°F. As I soak in my own private tub of mineral water, my body responds to the minerals, which are said to improve circulation, reduce inflammations, and soothe aching muscles.

Afterwards, I enjoy a few of the amenities, including a salt cave, meditation chairs, sauna, and steam room. Guests are also welcome to enjoy the spa’s 17,000-square-foot pool deck, a tropical paradise with waterfalls, lounges, a huge main pool, and a warm outdoor mineral pool. I never want to leave!

Experience an LA Vibe

at the Avalon Hotel & Bungalows

While in Palm Springs, I’m staying at the Avalon Hotel & Bungalows, which has a sister property in Beverly Hills. The boutique hotel has an LA vibe with multiple pools and sun decks where piped-in lounge music adds to the ambiance. Tucked away in the heart of downtown Palm Springs, the historic hotel is close to everything.

One night I dine at a nearby restaurant called Azúcar with a gorgeous rooftop terrace called Sugar High overlooking the San Jacinto Mountains. As the name suggests, the restaurant has a Mexican vibe and features a unique Southwestern menu. My before-dinner cocktail, Real Botanica, combines gin, lemon and lime juice, cucumber, and Szechuan peppercorns, which add a nice spicy finish. Standouts on the menu include the seasonal salad of watermelon with radicchio, spiced pistachios, and a lovely balsamic vinaigrette. I also love the Azúcar salad, which features arugula, cashews, goat cheese, and a fabulous dressing made with local dates. The Pollo Blanco is divine: tender chicken served with a white mole sauce and morels.

My last morning, I borrow a courtesy bike from the Avalon Hotel and explore nearby residential neighborhoods. As I pedal past immaculate mid-century homes, some with landscaped yards and others with tall privacy hedges, I inhale the pure, desert air and feel invigorated by my surroundings. I begin to understand why Palm Springs appeals to everyone from celebrities to ordinary folks who come here to vacation. Besides the glam and glitter, there’s also the unmistakable heartbeat of the local Native Americans who first claimed this lovely valley as their own. I’m grateful for their presence and thankful they are an integral part of this desert oasis.

For more information, visit www.visitgreaterpalmsprings.com.